From Fulham to Clanfield
An extract of village life around 1911, by Cyril Henry Coles.
Paving stones and parks gave way to lanes and open fields,
the cab to the wagonette, and the horizon of roofs and domes
to the distant view of the rolling South Downs. Life in the
country had begun.
It was true that the village boys, and even those numerous
Coles cousins, who were spread so liberally over the Clanfield
countryside, eyed. with some suspicion, and even disdain, this
rather weedy and. undersized newcomer with staring blue eyes,
whose parents had. rented Packhurst, the elegant Georgian house
on the hill. His neat blue and white sailor suits seemed incongruous
along the hedgerow and. impracticable for tree climbing or scaling
walls. The stout steel-bound. boots of the village boys kicked
easy footholds between the rough stones, and. contrasted. sharply
with his small well-shod feet. It was not long before he gained
their respect however, for what he lacked in brawn, he made
up for in mischievous ingenuity; his innocent blue eyes were
a useful mask, and the culprit often went undetected. The days
of the nose pressed sadly against the window in wistful longing
were over. Here in the country he had a new kind of freedom.
His new friends were Edwin Shawyer, the blacksmith’s son,
a dark thickset boy of his own age, with a talent for drawing:
runny nosed Gordon Adlam: Wally Baker and Cousin Peter, with
their passion for taming animals: clever Jack Murrant, the pig
killer’s boy, and the sly-eyed. Thompson, from Horndean,
with an eye to the main chance.
The life and work of the village moved with the rhythm of the
seasons; seedtime and. harvest each brought its own mystic rituals.
In late autumn, the ploughman trod mile upon mile of furrows
behind a team of shires, and on the hot August days, when the
corn had been cut and. shocked, the boys would squabble to lead
the docile horse between the sheaves. The prize was a shilling
a day, but the field held other delights, more barbarous and
primitive. Muscles tensed on stick and gun, the dogs nosed the
electric air. At last the merciless binder forced a cornered
rabbit to a hopeless dash to freedom out of the waning moon
of bright corn and across the naked stubble. But boys are bloodthirsty
creatures, and it was not the chase alone that compelled their
jungle instincts; when Jack Murrant’s Pa was summoned
to kill and. quarter a neighbour’s pig for the price of
one shilling and sixpence, he could always be sure of an audience.
Christmas brought all the usual celebrations: carol singers,
feasting and sliding and skating on the village pond and once
a pageant of St. George and the Dragon that had its roots deep
in the unrecorded folk lore of the past. But for the children
perhaps, it was the Band of Hope’s outing to Hayling Island
that was the much longed for occasion of the year. Four big
farm wagons were harnessed, and. four men chosen to pilot the
excited load, along its four hour journey to the sea. With the
wagons went the banner of the Band, of Hope. In the bat hung
twilight, the sleepy, contented load, returned, stuffed with
sweets and. sandwiches, pop and ices, lolling drowsily together
and. singing to the steady rumble of the cart wheels, and. the
distant far-off screams and splashing still roaring in their
ears. Even the chapel Elders turned a blind eye when those worthy
carters returned tardy home from their dawdle along the wayside
pubs.
The village was divided into two camps - the Church and the
Chapel. The Chapel and. the Liberals, (were seldom separated)
had the greater part. All the Coles but Uncle Henry were its
staunch supporters. Grandfather had once had. a difference of
opinion with the vicar and in a fit of pique turned Methodist,
converting simultaneously nearly all his farm hands, which amounted
to most of the congregation. Only once did a clergyman from
the rival church come near to making a truce. He was the Reverend.
Royce, a visiting priest from America. Perhaps it was his pioneer
spirit which endeared him to the Clanfield villagers, so accustomed
to the hymn singing and bible punching of these militant Methodists.
He was a distinguished figure in his clawhammer coat, so reminiscent
of portraits of Abraham Lincoln. He had actually been a bugler
in the war between the States, and later wrote one of those
novels so beloved of the Edwardians, entitled. “The Little
Bugler”.
But alas, religion, like anything else, is subject to the whim
of fashion. Fifty years ago, the swelling congregation having
outgrown the small Bethel Chapel adjoining Aunt Annie’s
house, built a new edifice opposite the pig-sties. It was filled
two or three times a Sunday, and rang with the familiar sounds
of raised voices to the harmonium, or the lay preacher’s
impassioned denunciation of the evils of alcohol. How many times
after Good Friday service, the pews were pushed back and trestle
tables spread with cress sandwiches and. sticky buns. On one
notable occasion, cold tea found its way into the harmonium
and a horrified. Kathy Richardson sobbed as the usual windy
groans were silenced, and little jets of brownish liquid issued.
fitfully from behind. the fabric front Entertainments were seldom
so unorthodox, however. They usually took the form of magic
lantern slides of The Holy Land. More secular film shows took
place at the school. These were provided. by travelling showmen,
and usually included at least one of a funeral, as these were
the cheapest on the markets But the programme always provided
some thrills. Once Cyril saw “Rescued by Rover”,
now considered a classic. The illumination for these shows was
provided, by the original limelight - a hydrogen flame directed
onto a pastille of lime.
Such were the unsophisticated, improvised, homespun entertainments
that a village community could afford. But no-one complained
of a lack of facilities. The hours of leisure were less, and
rising at dawn encouraged an early retire to bed.
Packhurst, although an elegant and graceful house, commanding
a good view of the village, had its disadvantages. But David
was not anxious to make improvements, as the house had only
been rented, and. his one idea was to build, on his own land.
This ran on the south side of the village and adjoined Admiral
Bailey’s property of Hinton Manor. It included a steep
down with a clump of new trees which Grand Father had grown,
known as the plantation. The house was to be built below this
hill, but on the crest of the next, so that on three sides the
vistas were long and pleasant, but it had the advantage of protection
from the winds on the east side.